Like every good pattern, this one has a story. Click here to read it.
Not interested in a long yarn? (lol)
Just want the pattern?
Then know this… the pattern as written makes a big hat. It’s about 10.5″ in diameter, and 6″ from top to band. I think if you ditch row 7 (and adjust stitch counts and repeats in the remaining rows) it will help quite a bit. If you want to keep it wide on top but snug at the bottom, you could double the number of decreases in rows 9 and 10. I’ll be updating with a smaller version once I’ve made version 2 of this hat.
Legal note: This is my pattern. There are (probably) many like it, but this one is mine. It is free. You’re welcome to use it to make hats and derivative works, and even to share and modify the pattern. However, if you redistribute the pattern (either in its original form or modified) please include a link back to the original here.
Thanks!
So… without further ado…
The Fluffy AF Popcorn Hat
Stitch Abbreviations
- Magic Circle (played by itself)
- sc – Single Crochet
- dc – Double Crochet
- ss – Slip stitch
- ch – Chain
- fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
- bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet
- popcorn – 5DC Popcorn Stitch
- pop2tog – Popcorn Decrease (my version)
- ch3pop – A popcorn where the first DC is the starting ch3 of the row.
Yarn
~500-600 yards of Plymouth Encore Worsted (Winter White) – 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool
Note: This is not the softest yarn ever. In fact, I might even call it a little scratchy. It’s really easy to work with, though… and it’s fking gorgeous.
Scale
Each of my popcorn stitches is about 3/4″ wide by 1″ long.
Hook
6.5mm
Stitch Guide
Magic Circle: This video explains it better than I can.
popcorn (Popcorn Stitch): Work 5 dcs into the same stitch or stitch space. Remove your hook from the loop. Insert your hook through the top of the first dc, front to back. Hook the loop and pull it through. ch1 to seal it closed.
pop2tog (Popcorn Decrease): I don’t know if this is the right way to do it, but it works great! So it’s how you’re gonna do it if you follow this pattern to the T.Work 2 dcs into the first stitch space. Work a dc2tog across the popcorn from the previous row (yarn over, insert into the first stitch space, yarn over, pull through the stitch space, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert into the second stitch space, yarn over, pull through the second stitch space, yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over, pull through all 3 remaining loops.) Work 2 dcs into the second stitch space.
Remove your hook from the loop. Insert your hook through the top of the first dc, front to back. Hook the loop and pull it through. ch1 to seal it closed.
ch3pop (Row-Starting Popcorn): Chain 3. Work 4 DCs into the stitch space just BEHIND the chain. Remove your hook from the loop. Insert your hook through the third ch of the ch3, front to back. Hook the loop and pull it through. ch1 to seal it closed.
fpdc (Front Post Double Crochet): A double crochet that, instead of being worked into the top loop of a stitch, is worked around the post of the stitch from the front. See this video.
bpdc (Back Post Double Crochet): A double crochet that, instead of being worked into the top loop of a stitch, is worked around the post of the stitch from the back. See this video.
[…] x times: Items in square brackets are sections to be done x number of times.
The Pattern
Working with two strands at once, throughout.
Foundation: Magic circle.
Row 1: ch1 (counts as first sc). Work 6 sc into the magic circle. ss into the first ch1 to join. (7 sc)
Row 2: ch3pop in first sc. [1 popcorn in next sc] 6 times. ss around starting ch3 to join. (7 popcorn)
Increases start here. This will form the top of the hat. It may seem somewhat flat at first, but it will round out quite a bit when worn. For a smaller hat you can reduce the number of rows in this section. To curve it in more, you could do 4 increases instead of 7 in rows 5 and/or 6.
Row 3: ch3pop in first stitch space. [2 popcorn in next stitch space] 6 times. 1 popcorn in final stitch space. ss around ch3 of starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 13 popcorn)
Row 4: ch3pop in first stitch space. [2 popcorn in next stitch space] 6 times. 1 popcorn in same stitch space as the starting ch3pop. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 13 popcorn)
Row 5: ch3pop in first stitch space. 1 popcorn in the next stitch space. [2 popcorn in next stitch space, 1 popcorn in the next stitch space] 6 times. 1 popcorn in same stitch space as the starting ch3pop. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 20 popcorn)
Row 6: ch3pop in first stitch space. 1 popcorn in next 2 stitch spaces. [2 popcorn in next stitch space, 1 popcorn in next 2 stitch spaces] 6 times]. 1 popcorn in same stitch space as the starting ch3pop. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 27 popcorn)
I would recommend skipping Row 7 and adjusting stitch counts further down… unless you have a big head like me. I *think* this is the row that made the hat too big for my wife.
Row 7: ch3pop in first stitch space. 1 popcorn in next 2 stitch spaces. [2 popcorn in next stitch space, 1 popcorn in next 3 stitch spaces] 6 times]. 1 popcorn in same stitch space as the starting ch3pop. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 34 popcorn)
Vertical bits! Want a taller hat? Repeat this row ad nauseam! Adjust the number of rows depending on the desired height. For measurement, the center of the hat should sit toward the back top of the head, and you want this section to end maybe an inch or so above the tips of the ears.
Row 8: ch3pop in first stitch space. [1 popcorn in next stitch space] 34 times. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 34 popcorn)
Here we start to curve back inward. These rows should start to hug the ears.
Row 9: ch3pop in first stitch space. 1 popcorn in next 4 stitch spaces. pop2tog across next 2 stitch spaces, 1 popcorn in next 15 stitch spaces. pop2tog across next 2 stitch spaces. 1 popcorn in next 11 stitch spaces. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 2 pop2tog, 30 popcorn)
Row 10: ch3pop in first stitch space. 1 popcorn in next 12 stitch spaces. pop2tog across next 2 stitch spaces, 1 popcorn in next 15 stitch spaces. pop2tog across next 2 stitch spaces. 1 popcorn in next 3 stitch spaces. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 2 pop2tog, 28 popcorn)
One more straight row for good measure.
Row 11: ch3pop in first stitch space. [1 popcorn in next stitch space] 30 times. ss around ch3 of the starting ch3pop to join. (1 ch3pop, 30 popcorn)
Brim time! Finally done with popcorn! The join of each row will be the rear of the hat.
Row 12: ch1 (counts as first sc). ch1. [sc in next stitch space, ch1] 30 times. ss into starting ch1 to join. (31 sc, 31 ch)
Row 13: ch3 (this chain will be ignored). fpdc around first sc (actually a ch1) in row 12, dc in next chain space. [fpdc around next sc, dc in next ch1 space] 10 times. [fpdc around next sc, 2 dc in next ch1 space] 8 times. [fpdc around next sc post, dc in next ch1 space] 11 times. ss into top of first fpdc to join. (31 fpdc, 39 dc)
Row 14: ch3 (this chain will be ignored). fpdc around first fpdc post in row 12. bpdc around next dc. [fpdc around next fpdc, bpdc around next dc] 10 times. [fpdc around next fpdc, 2 bpdc around next dc, 2 bpdc around next dc] 8 times. [fpdc around next fpdc, bpdc around next dc] 11 times. ss into top of first fpdc to join. (31 fpdc, 47 bpdc)
Row 15: ch1 (counts as first sc). sc in next 77 stitches. ss into starting chain. Finish off and weave in ends. (78 sc)